This is a catch all page for yard projects and the maintenance of yard equipment such as the lawn tractor, Troy-bilt tiller, home generator, weed trimmer, leaf blower and furnace and all home maintenance whether corrective or preventative!

TOMATO PATCH

A couple weeks ago around March 5th; guessing at the date, I fired up the antiquated Troy-Bilt tiller and tilled the soil for the tomato patch adding some 10-10-10 fertilizer to help jump start the tomatoes.  I do no plan to place any tomato plants in the soil until around the second week in April.

The weather prognosticators are forecasting rain for the next five (5) days or more and will probably "churn" the ground up after the rain.

The same day I tilled the tomato patch, I aerated the front and back yard and spread fertilizer in the front yard and was on time since we got several decent rains since then.

YARD SWING MAINTENANCE

The yard swing maintenance could go under my woodworking page, but decided to add it here.

Each year when cold weather hits, I place the yard swing in the basement shop and let it fully dry out and come Spring will add stain and/or marine varnish to it.

A month or more ago, I was looking the swing over pretty good and noticed that two or three of the vertical back members were a little spongy feeling at the base where the tenon terminate into the lower cross member mortise.  The marine varnish was still in tack and water apparently had gotten into the mortise and wicked its way into the vertical member's lower tenon.

The pine wood was treated and ripped from bull nose decking boards.  One thing is for certain, the current wood treatment process definitely does not last like the treated wood of thirty (30) or more years ago and I am sure due to all the current regulations for the usage of volatile products. 

I decided to replace all the vertical back support members and add 1/4 inch overhang on each side of the vertical member, whereas the original plans had no overhang and this allowed moisture to accumulate in the mortise slot since wood expands and contracts.

The vertical back members has a tenon at both ends and they were installed in the upper and lower horizontal support member and once in place, the assembly was glued into the side frame members and dowels installed.  The only way to get the vertical back support members out was to saw them in two and then remove the tenons from the mortise slots.  To get the new back support members into the mortise slots, I had to open up the outside of the lower mortises and/or could have done the upper mortise slots.

I used a dowel saw, chisel and mallet to remove the outer portion of the mortise.

As depicted above, the vertical back support members now have the 1/4 inch overhang.  I also provided a means to allow any accumulated water in the mortise slot to escape by drilling a hole into the horizontal member added to keep the tenons in place.  I had a piece of unallocated teak wood strip which I only had to cut to the proper length and sand a slight taper on the ends since it was a little thicker than needed and didn't want to run it through the planer.

The vertical back slats were sealed/stained and then placed into the upper and lower mortise slots.

The stained teak wood covered the exposed mortise slots and offers some protection from rain.

I will spray another coat of stain onto the vertical back rest members and clean the entire swing with some mineral spirits and touch up areas as needed.

Tomorrow, the Lord willing of course, I plan to change the oil, filter and spark plugs in the John Deer Lawn Tractor and sharpen the blades since grass cutting season is here.

Web page created by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 03-20-2020.

UPDATE 03-24-2020

It has drizzled rain since the 20th and haven't had a chance to finish refurbishing the yard swing.

UPDATE 03-27-2020

Yesterday was a dry day and turned off beautiful in the mid to late afternoon and got a chance to spray a good coat of redwood stain on the swing. 

I used a cedar oil type based stain TWP 100 from SealandProtect.com and used my spray gun to apply the sealant.  The finish is curing out as I type and will probably take several days to properly cure before I hang it back up in the front yard.

REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE NEEDED

While waiting for the rain to stop, I checked our small home emergency generator and it would fire with one pull of the starter cord, however it would run only a second or two.  Normally, this would indicate a gummed up carburetor since it apparently wasn't getting enough fuel and/or a clogged up spark arrestor in the muffler system.  I removed the carburetor and sprayed cleaner it in and put some fresh gas in the tank, but it still would not run, yet would crank on the first pull or two.  I cleaned the spark arrestor with the same results. 

I didn't want to be without an emergency generator, therefore decided to take it to the pros and left it with Pinkston's Inc. here in Wadesboro and the technician who helped me unload the generator, stated it was probably the carburetor.  When I pick up the repaired generator, I will find out exactly what the problem was.

I used my deer hanging tree nick named Tom Dooley aka Tom Dula to winch the generator into the air and drove the truck bed underneath it to load it because I don't have any ramps and no one close by to assist.  I probably could have used the slopping area in the side/back yard, but due to the wet grass/ground, the ole Ford Ranger probably would not back up the incline, whereas there is no weight in the rear of the truck for adequate traction and it will spin on wet grass........grin if you must!

LAWN TRACTOR MAINTENANCE

The John Deer lawn tractor is due for yearly routine maintenance, however it has a slow air leak in the right front tire.  I inspected the tire and could not detect any foreign object in the tire and took the tire  to Danny Bowers, aka Moore's Garage, whereas Danny stated we had two options since the tire was dry rotted: 1)  Install a tube which he didn't recommend and 2) Replace the tire.  I had him to order a replacement tire.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 03-24-2020.

SERVICED LAWN TRACTOR - 03-26-2020

My deer hanging tree nick named Tom Dooley aka Tom Dula gets a workout even though our big game hunting season ended around the 1st of this year (2020). 

I removed and sharpened the two blades, changed the engine oil and filter, greased the fittings and changed out the two spark plugs. 

Air was added to three of the tires and reduced the air pressure on the new tire that Danny Bowers installed on the tire hub.  I forgot the air filter and will check/clean or replace tomorrow.

The lawn tractor is now ready for another grass cutting season, the Lord willing of course!

SERVICED STIHL FS 70RC WEED TRIMMER

I changed the spark plug in the Stihl FS 70RC weed trimmer and the air filter.  I used air pressure to blow out any debris from the weed trimmer motor housing, etc. and was having trouble removing and installing the gas cap.  That type of gas cap has always been a "dawg" to install and remove and went on line to see if there was an alternate type of gas lever type lock cap to use. 

I found on the Stihl website there was a recall issued for the gas cap for the FS 70RC weed trimmer and my serial number was within the recall.  I contacted Stihl via their website contact form advising them that my weed trimmer was in the recall.  I also called our local dealer Pinkston's Inc. who wasn't aware of a recall and he called the factory and ascertained there was a recall.  He said to bring the trimmer and they would replace the gas cap at no charge and file a warranty claim.

NOTE:  I took the above weed trimmer to our Stihl dealer Pinkston's Inc., here in Wadesboro and they replaced the gas cap free of charge!

Before next usage, I plan to use Mineral Spirits and clean the entire housing, gas tank etc. of the gunk buildup. 

Looks much better now.

MORE MAINTENANCE AHEAD

I have to change the oil, filter, spark plug and air filter in the portable generator when I get it back from Pinkston's Inc. and also change the spark plug and air filter for the Husqvarna back pack leaf blower.

Then it will be the same for the Husqvarna chain saw........grin if you must!

I also have a couple wood working projects to do!

MURPHY'S LAW NEVER SLEEPS

As of 04-13-2020, I am still waiting to hear from Pinkston's Inc. to pick up the portable generator needing repairs.

I do not want to be the prophet of doom, but I had a feeling I would need the generator before it got repaired and this morning around 6:13 A.M. while reading God's Holy Word, the power went off and as of 4:13 P.M. it is still off.  I guess you could say, This was "The Fulfillment of Prophecy of Expectations" aka self-fulfilling prophecy!

However, I went to Lowe's in Rockingham, NC this morning in hopes they would have generators in stock and glad they did.  I purchased one similar to the current one I have (in the shop for repairs) made by Craftsman and has a 306CC Briggs and Stratton OHV engine. 

I looked on the box and the 240VAC 30A receptacle looked like the 4 prong twist lock plug that I have on the power cord to the 200 amp main power panel for the older model Craftsman portable generator which I believe is 7.8 HP.

After getting the unit home, the 4 prong twist lock plug on my generator power cord was 20A and all the supply houses are closed for Easter Monday.  I surveyed the scene and figured I could modify the upper ground prong by grinding down the right angle twist locking tab which was orientated different from the 30A receptacle.  To make a long story short, with the aid of my Dremel tool, small grinding rock and using the generator for 120VAC power, the ground prong was modified enough to fit the 30 amp generator receptacle. 

Hopefully, the 4 prong 20 amp plug will still work with the other generator when I get it back.

The projected power outage is to last sometime around 6:30 P.M., and I didn't want to take a chance on loosing anything in two refrigerators, whereas the chest freezer will remain frozen for a good while without power if you don't open the lid.

The little 5000 watt portable generator is running everything in our home except the 5K watt hot water heater and I don't plan to turn the stove oven on either which is wired for 50 amps.  Also, I don't plan on using the clothes dryer which has a 30 amp breaker for it as well.

I just checked the incoming power at around 5:00 P.M. and it was on and will wait a little while before I go back on the main power line.

This generator has a fuel tank of 8.5 gallons.

The 200 amp service panel feeds one 100 amp sub-panel located inside the home, one sub-panel for my basement woodworking shop, outside cooling unit and a couple GFCI receptacles which are not currently being used and the generator receptacle.  All have breakers in the 200 amp service panel and main breakers in the two sub-panels and the ac unit also has a disconnect box at the unit.

I have to manually disconnect power to the main incoming line by flipping the 200 amp main breaker to the off position.

NOTE:  Later, I installed a generator interlock to prevent the danger of back feeding the main line.

UPDATES:  I am glad I didn't get any tomato plants into the ground yet, since it was very cold this morning being 37 degrees per the weather prognosticators. 

Also, yesterday I stopped by City Electrical Supply here in Wadesboro and purchased another 20 amp 4 prong twist lock plug, 30 amp 4 prong twist lock plug, 30 amp 4 prong twist lock female connector and 4 feet of 10 gauge 4 wire heavy insulated generator cord.  I replaced the modified 20 amp plug with the 30 amp 4 prong twist lock plug and made an adapter cable for the older model Craftsman generator where I can use my current generator cord for both generators.  I don't think I will need two generators running at the same time.  Hopefully, I will get the repaired generator back from Pinkston's Inc. here in Wadesboro, NC, but with all the Hustler zero turn machines needing service in their back storage lot, it will be a very long time.

CHANGED OIL IN THE 5K WATT GENERATOR

I changed oil in the Briggs and Stratton 306CC engine per manufacturers recommendation after initial usage.  I also pulled the spark plug since the manual had a Sears reference number, of which I could ascertain the actual spark plug.  The spark plug is a Torch F6TC and ordered a couple on EBay.

I will find out what brand oil filter to use and I expect it will be the same for the Craftsman 7.8HP generator that is currently in the repair shop. 

WHITE OAK TREE NEEDS CUTTING BACK

The white oak tree I am referencing, I nicknamed Tom Dooley aka Dula.  I have used the tree to hang my deer for skinning and quartering up and to lift the lawn tractor for routine service.

When we purchased our home over thirty (30) years ago, the tree was leaning some then if I am not mistaken. 

I recently noticed the leaning of the tree which seems to have increased over the decades and decided it was time to have it cut back in the event it did fall, of which it is tall enough to land onto our home.

I called a couple professional tree arborists, but with the recent storm damage here in southern NC and South Carolina, they are booked way in advance.  One of them hasn't called back that I talked to and earlier send pixs of the tree in question.

In the past, I would attempt to do the tree trimming and/or removal  myself using tree climbing hooks, safety belt and harness, but the date on my birth certificate and common sense alerts me to put Safety first.

I will do a short story on the tree trimming when it happens and below are pixs of the tree:

NOTE:  I contacted three (3) tree service companies and Eddie's Tree Removal and Lawn Service here in Wadesboro, NC agreed to cut the tree back with a schedule date of November 9, 2020.  I will probably do a separate short story on the tree trimming.

NOTE:  Eddie came by our home on November 8, 2020 and advised he had some pressing issues that came up and we rescheduled the tree service for November 17, 2020.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 10-26-2020 and 11-21-2020

WHITE OAK TREE TRIMMED WAY BACK

Eddie Maye and his crew showed up Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at approximately 12:58 PM and cut the tree back to my satisfaction.

Open this hyperlink for the short story:  Eddie's Tree Removal

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 11-19-2020,

DANDELIONS

After taking the above pixs, I dug about four (4) gallons of dandelions from the yard too!

The ole trappers shovel comes in handy for getting to the "root of the problem", no pun intended!

TOMATO PLANTS IN THE GROUND

I made a trip to the Hamlet Hardware Store in Hamlet, NC on 04-29-20 and purchases some tomato plants and got them in the ground the next day, but not sure of the exact date.

I made another trip to purchase some of their larger tomato plants on 05-02-20 and got them planted on 05-04-20 and we had a gulley wash aka frog strangler rain on the early morning of 05-05-20 and the plants got a good jump start for sure. 

The weather prophets are forecasting a low of around 37 degrees here on Saturday morning and the plants should survive that low temp.  The past few days have been gorgeous for sure!

There is probably too much shade for this tomato patch, but hopefully will produce some good tomatoes.  Most of the larger tomato plants have blooms on them and two or three plants have small tomatoes on them already.  Only a couple of the larger plants are slicing tomatoes with the balance snacking and/or salad tomatoes.

TOMATO PLANTS UPDATE

Seems like forever it has rained since the tomato plants were placed in the ground and yesterday and today so far, has been rain free.

All eight (8) of the larger tomato plants have tomatoes on them.  Six of the eight are small aka salad tomatoes and two plants are larger slicing tomatoes.  The smaller tomato plants are coming along, but a few I believe has had too much water, especially on the lower end of the tomato patch, but hopefully they will make it.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-01-2020.

PORTABLE GENERATOR UPDATE

I finished up today labeling the Midwest 200 amp service panel, of which I earlier changed out the generator receptacle to a Reliance PB30 which is per code for the 5K watt generator and made a generator lockout plate to prevent back feeding into the main incoming line.

I had my Sister SusieQ of Reidsville, NC send me a pix of the receptacle their electrician installed and also the breaker interlock used for their panel.  A commercial breaker interlock will only work on our service panel when the generator is connected to the top left breaker position below the main service disconnect switch and had to build one to fit my box since I didn't want to change the breaker positions.

You cannot move the generator breaker to the on position until you move the main 200 amp breaker to the off position, whereby you can slide the breaker interlock to the right allowing the generator breaker to be moved to the on position.  I made the breaker interlock from 1/4 inch thick Plexiglas.  I can also use GFCI # 4 anytime as needed which feeds power to the weatherproof 20 amp receptacles mounted to the right and above the PB30 generator receptacle which I normally used for my smoker, etc.

I believe my internal gyroscope aka plumb level is off a tad since I had difficulty getting the labels orientated in a good horizontal position.......grin if you must!  Of course the power panel outside cover was low and you had to lower your head....another grin is in order.

Above is an Alliance PB30 receptacle that meets code....Two (2) GFCI weather proof receptacle boxes were in the way, but had enough room to squeeze the PB30 in, however the down feed tubing wasn't parallel with another feeder pipe; eye appeal only.

I removed the other generator receptacle that didn't meet code because the mating plug from the generator had exposed prongs and also the GFCI receptacle box that wasn't being used.

Today, I got our 4200 watt portable generator back from the repair shop, Pinkston's Inc. and the trouble was a bad oil switch and the total bill was $ 72.56 and very pleased with their service.  The generator fired and ran on the first pull of the starter cord!

NOTE:  I changed the oil, oil filter and spark plug on 05-12-2020.

I am thinking about using the 4200 watt generator to power my external cooling unit only when there is a power failure in hot weather.  The 5K watt generator will be used to power necessary house appliances with exceptions noted earlier.  I will need to check the code requirements and see if this is feasible or not and check the start up amperage of the cooling unit compressor versus the amperage when it is running.  

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 03-26-2020, 03-27-2020, 04-13-2020, 04-16-2020,  04-18-2020, 04-21-2020, 04-29-2020, 05-05-20 and 05-12-2020 and annotated at other place through out this page.

STRAWED THE TOMATO PLANTS

A couple days ago, I placed some newspapers around the larger tomato plants and put a good layer of rye straw around them to help retain moisture and the newspaper will help keep the weeds down; at least that is goal.  I stepped on a couple of the smaller tomato plants and was as graceful as "a bull in a china shop"....................grin if you must!

The past week has been cold in the mornings, but we didn't have any frost due to the high wind and the temperature didn't dip below 37 degrees F. 

The salad aka cherry tomatoes are growing on several of the larger plants with the larger plants blooming real well.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-12-2020.

SLIDING GLASS DOOR REPAIRS

The sliding glass door to the deck has been very hard to open and close for a long time and noticed the aluminum track the door slides on was badly worn with several divots aka dents in them apparently from the door steel track wheels.

You can see how much the aluminum track rail is worn down by comparing the rail at the extreme right in the pix where the door roller wheel does not make contact.

Above is a close up pix of the door rail which shows the serious divots worn into the rail reminiscent of a miniature roller coaster.

I went on line and watched half a dozen YouTube videos on replacing the rollers on the bottom of the door and also the repair of the bottom aluminum track the door rollers rides on.

The part I needed was hyperlinked in one of the videos I watched and went on line and ordered the part at this link:   https://www.dkhardware.com/8-stainless-steel-small-patio-door-sill-cover-6701a8-product-13764.html

In case the door roller assembly was worn out and needed to be replaced, I took the door out of the track and got it onto the deck picnic table.  There are hundreds of different roller assemblies and you have to carefully measure the one that is in your door and do a visual comparison also.  Removing the door from the track is a two man job, because the door is very, very heavy and must weight 50 pounds or more, plus is awkward to handle. 

I checked the rollers and it was found they were out of adjustment and the rollers were lowered out of the roller housing assembly by turning a Phillips head screw clockwise.  I lubed the roller wheel axles with some Remington oil which has Teflon in it and the roller wheels would turn easily.

Here is a pix of where the adjustment is located for each roller wheel assembly.  The top opening gives access to the Phillips head adjustment screw, whereas the bottom screw retains the wheel assembly inside the door frame and to the lower frame member.  All doors are not the same!

If you need to remove the roller wheel assembly from the door channel frame, the door has to be supported on a table or saw horses.  You have to remove the large Phillips head screw from the roller assembly at the bottom that secures the roller assembly to the U shaped channel frame member and secures the member to the bottom frame member also.  There is a Phillips screw that secures the top of the door U shaped channel member to the upper frame.  It is necessary to loosen the bolts/screws that secure the handle/locking device to the door frame to relieve tension so the door frame can move.  Using a rubber mallet and a piece of wood, you tap the U shaped frame member a couple inches away from the bottom door channel member exposing the roller wheel assembly.  You replace the wheel assembly and adjust the wheel out from the wheel housing assembly.  Using a rubber mallet and piece of wood, you tap the channel member back into place where the large Phillips head screw will align with the bottom channel member.  Repeat the sequence for the other roller wheel assembly. 

I have the roller wheels adjusted out and when the stainless steel sill cover is installed, I will probably have to let the wheels go back into the door frame by turning the adjusting screw counter clockwise.  The roller wheels did not have any tension on them by the adjusting screw when originally installed and probably didn't need to be adjusted out.

I got lucky on this repair, since the roller wheel assemblies were in good shape and did not need replacing.

I don't plan to carry the heavy sliding door onto the deck picnic table again unless absolutely necessary, but will adjust the roller wheels while the door is in the track and will relieve some tension with a wedge since I will be working alone, otherwise your helper could lift up on the end of the door while adjusting the screw.  When I remove the sliding door from the track, I will position the door upright resting against a wall in the dining room/kitchen and elevate the door on a couple pieces of wood to keep the rollers off the floor and adjust the rollers after installing the stainless steel sill cover over the existing aluminum worn rail.   

With the sliding glass door out of the frame, I cleaned the track with a toothbrush and vacuumed debris from the track.  I used a large flat bastard file and trimmed both sides of the aluminum 1/4 inch wide track rail that the roller wheels rides on which had flared out some.  As stated and evidenced by the pixs, there is some serious wear to the track, but the replacement stainless steel sill cover should correct that problem.

We have owned our home for about 31 years and the sliding tempered glass double pane door was already installed when we purchased our home and no doubt the sliding door to the deck is 40 years old.........grin if you must!

The sliding glass door was placed back into the door frame and the roller wheels were making good contact with the aluminum track and could open and close the door with ease, however you could feel the divots and worn places in the track, but this didn't hinder the door from opening and closing requiring any extra force.

By raising the sliding door upward by lowering the roller wheels, the door lock would not properly catch and there was not enough adjustment in the door catch assembly.  I moved the door latch upward by drilling and relocating the screws that held the catch in place.

As evidenced by the pix, this sliding door in the past has been forced open by the bent frame adjacent the locking device that houses the door when it is fully closed.  I will probably take a piece of wood and use a hammer to straighten the outer flange that is bent toward the left in the pix.

I believe I was the one that got locked out and this was the easiest way to gain entry without breaking any glass on three (3) other doors if I am not mistaken.  A large grilling fork left on the deck grilling area was used to force the door off the locking device.  These doors are not security doors for sure!  Spare accessible house keys are a necessity.

To my understanding, there was no key available to the locking device on the glass sliding door and might try and find a key for it, if there is some key ID on the locking device.  I could remove the locking device from the door frame, but with spare house keys, it would be a waste of time.

NOTE:  On 05-29-2020, I used a C clamp and three (3) blocks of wood to bend the left portion of the door channel track that was bent outward at the locking device, however I did not bend the metal too much since it appeared to be tempered and didn't want to risk breaking the bent channel.

I went on line and found a replacement sliding screen door since the old one is worn out and the frame is broken at the door latch; still usable, but a pain in the rear to use.

I plan to make a trip to Home Depot in Matthews which has the door I need in stock.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-29-2020.

RECEIVED THE SILL CAP - OUCH!

I received the stainless steel sill cap this afternoon and it reminded me of landing a big bass on a fast action tip fly rod with plenty of back bone.

USPS apparently tapped the damaged shipping tube back together.  I was surprised that the supplier had the part loose in the shipping tube with no additional support.

I sent pixs of the damaged shipping tube and the part to the supplier and called them on the telephone.  Their representative said they have the pixs and would send a replacement.  The guy I talked to stated they had problems with this item with both USPS and UPS as far as getting damaged in shipment.  The rep said it was cheaper to replace the part than add a piece of wood to the item in the shipping tube of which I suggested.  A 1" x 4" x 10' pine board costs approx. $ 5.82 and you could  easily get 3 strips from one board.  I am glad I do not think that way.  If something is broke, fix it!

I might be able to salvage the part, but there is a risk of crimping the top, of which I need a good smooth surface for the roller wheels to ride on.  I will put a radius on a piece of hardwood strip the correct width and work the piece into the channel where the bend is located and see what happens.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-26-2020.  

SALVAGING THE SILL CAP

My bride and myself were watching our Gonzales grandkids this morning of 05-27-2020 and after they were picked up by their Mom around mid day, I decided the see if I could straighten the bent and warped stainless steel sill cap.

I measured the part with my dial caliber and this is a rough drawing of the part:

Below a close-up pix of the end view of the sill cap:

I went through some of my scrap aka unallocated curly maple wood strips and found one that was about .175 inches and figured I could wedge the bent sill cap onto the wood and try and form it back into shape with a small hammer.

After getting the part fairly straight even though it still had a upward bend (bow) in it, but the warp was about totally removed.

The sill cap raw material was 96 inches in length and I only needed 70.5 inches and the warped/bent place was 51 inches +- from one end and decided to place that area to the left of the sliding door track.

INSTALLING THE SILL CAP

I removed the safety screw from the top track first and then scotched the door upward and let the roller wheels into the door channel to offset the additional thickness of the sill cap and then removed the door, resting it on a couple pieces of scrap wood to keep the rollers off the floor.

I used my Milwaukee 4 inch angle head grinder to straighten the sides of the aluminum track and finished off with a couple bastard files without a handle on them. 

The track was cleaned with lacquer reducer and DAP clear silicone was applied to the inside of the sill cap and gently tapped in place with a rubber mallet.  Since I didn't remove the other side of the fixed door from that track, I used a small brass/plastic head hammer to tap the sill cap in place over the original aluminum track.

The left end of the sill cap wanted to ride a little high (spring upward) and had some upward movement in it.  When I installed the sliding door back into the channel, I slid the heavy door to the far left to apply pressure to the sill cap while the silicone cures.

To keep the sill cap in place to the right of the sliding door while the silicone cures, I used a block of wood that fit between the U shaped bottom channel, of which I routed a 3/8 inch radius in the center a little less than 1/4 inch in depth.  I placed the wood strip over the sill cap and added some heavy lead weights on top of the wood to help keep the sill cap in place.  The way the sill cap is designed, the bottom is narrower than the inside center to center portion which has a spring action to keep it in place in combination with the silicone sealant.  Some installers use epoxy instead of silicone.

If there is a problem with the far left end of the sill cap wanting to raise from the aluminum track, I will cut a piece of wood to length and scotch it into place from top to bottom inside the left U shaped channel member since the sliding glass door doesn't have to be slid to the extreme far left anyway.  I am grown and haven't missed too many meals, but not that grown.....will wait and see after the silicone has cured.

I am curious if the replacement part will make it here undamaged via USPS since the part is packaged in a very light duty mailing tube without any additional packing material around the sill cap. 

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-27-2020.

NOTE:  I picked up the sill cap this morning at the Post Office and the shipping tube was bent, however the sill cap was still in tack.....unbelievable for sure!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-03-2020.

SLIDING DOOR TRACK REPAIRS COMPLETED

I removed the lead weights off the right hand portion of the sliding door track and the stainless sill cover was still in place; the silicone had done it's job along with the design of the sill cover.  I closed the sliding door and checked the far left portion of the sill cover and it was still in place and had not moved upward at all.  The weight of the sliding door kept the sill cover in place for the silicone to set.  I decided to add a strip of wood from the top of the inside door flange to the bottom tightly against the sill cover and will leave it in place.  It takes 24 hours for the silicone to fully cure.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-28-2020. 

REPLACED SLIDING SCREEN DOOR

As mentioned earlier, Home Depot has in stock a sliding screen door that has an adjustable height; e.g., 77 3/4 to 80 inches, whereas our screen door is 36" x 79" x 1/2" thickness.

The sliding screen door doesn't slide as smooth as I desire because the adjustable U shaped channel member will not fit into the 1/2 inch inside width track since it is over 9/16 inch thickness, however the door manufacturer allowed for this by including a couple plastic standoffs that would fit inside the 1/2 inch width track.  The plastic standoffs are not making full contact with the upper portion of the door channel and will later measure and make a couple to exactly fit our door frame which will take out any "seesaw" type movement when sliding the screen door open/close.

The door latch was installed in the U shaped channel left track by drilling a small hole for a sheet metal screw and the latch body has an elongated slot for any adjustment needed.  I got it right the first try by double checking the placement of the door lock, etc.

I plan to have a custom made sliding screen door made in the future which is 36 x 79 x 1/2 inches since I am not satisfied with the adjustable fit sliding screen door.  The problem is the U shaped channel this is on the bottom and top and slides over the 1/2 inch width screen door frame and this has increased friction between the upright door frame member.  The sliding screen door will work for now; sometimes you win, sometimes you lose......grin if you must.  I had rather absorb the cost of replacing the screen door than make another trip to Matthews, NC to Home Depot to return the adjustable sliding screen door.  That is how bad I dislike driving through Monroe and into the Matthews business district!

This completes the sliding glass patio door to the deck project and will start a couple more small maintenance projects next week, the Lord willing of course. 

The sliding glass door is operable with one finger to open and close and rides on the track like greased lightening......grin if you must!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-30-2020.

SAFETY TIPS

Many older sliding doors such as this one and new doors as well, has plenty of room in the overhead track where the sliding glass door can be lifted upward without having to do anything to the door frame.  You can use a pry bar between the door frame and the locking device or under the door and lift the door upward off the locking device to gain entry without breaking the tempered glass.

To prevent this from happening, you simply install a screw inside the upper door frame and adjust the screw length where the door will open, but will not have any clearance when the door is lifted upward to come off the track and/or door locking device.

Another method to keep the door from opening (sliding to the left) is cut a piece of wood that will fit into the track cut to length that will not allow the door to slide to the left.

Of course, a criminal with intent to break into your home will not be deterred by normal security measures; e.g., alarm systems including cameras, locking devices and silent alarms which are good "after the fact."  Many criminals will use a technique called smash and grab.  Most law enforcement response time is way too slow to combat (prevent) robberies and other crimes of this type, especially if you are miles away from their station and in rural areas.

DEALING WITH CRIMINALS AND CRIMINAL PSYCHOLOGY

After 33 years of employment (now retired) with the North Carolina Department of Correction, renamed NC DPS, North Carolina Department of Public Safety, it is amazing what criminals will do to circumvent doing a honest days work!  I remember talking with one convict that was serving time for larceny and he stated, "I didn't steal anything, I wanted it and I took it."  That convict is no doubt still serving time somewhere!  This has been said many times before, "There is no cure for stupid." 

When the stainless steel sill cover arrives, I will cut it to length and go over the door track with my small Milwaukee 4 inch angle head grinder and smooth the sides up of the aluminum 1/4 inch width track and blend the right hand portion of the track to the start of the worn area.

The stainless steel sill cover will snap in place onto the bottom rail with the aid of a rubber mallet and silicone is used to "seal the deal."  

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-21-2020.

DUKE ENERGY POWER OUTAGE

Yesterday afternoon, we had a serious storm quickly come through with wind gusts reported at 60 MPH bringing a humongous amount of rain.  At approximately 05:07 PM, our electrical power went off.  I waited a few minutes to see if the power would return, of which it didn't and got the generator on our home power grid.  The generator interlock at our main 200 amp service panel works great and prevents you from back feeding power from the generator to the Duke Energy grid.

After getting the generator on our home grid, I checked on line with the pc and they were projecting the power would be off until 8 PM the following day.

I stayed up until around 1 AM on the next morning (05-23-2020) and turned the generator breaker off at the main 200 amp service panel and let the generator cool down for a few minutes and topped the generator fuel tank off with about 5 gallons of non-ethanol gas, 93 percent octane.  I fired the generator back up and flipped the breaker to get power back onto our home power grid and stayed up a little while longer and then hit the sack.

I woke up around 05:30 AM and the generator was purring along.  The Craftsman 5K watt generator is a bit noisy, but we can live with that.  Since it was raining, I opted to leave the generator in the open carport and really no change of getting asphyxiated from the carbon monoxide generator exhaust.

The power returned ON at approximately 10:17 AM (05-23-2020) and turned the generator breaker off and flipped the main 200 amp service panel breaker on which restored power from the Duke Energy power grid.  As stated earlier, you cannot have the 200 amp main breaker on and the generator breaker on at the same time which prevents any chance of back feeding power into the Duke Energy power grid.

The 5K watt generator has gotten a workout for sure since Easter Monday (04-13-2020), six (6) hours usage then and seventeen (17) hours of run time since yesterday afternoon/evening.

I plan to put the 4200 watt generator on our home grid at the next power outage and run each generator once a month to ascertain they are operational.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-23-2020.

HOME GUTTER MAINTENANCE

The torrential rain we had on 05-23-2020 which many folks call a frog strangler, gulley wash, etc., I noticed that the front gutter system from the chimney back to the North end (right) was allowing water to come over the top of the gutter.  I have seen this before, whereas there was so much water coming down, the gutter could not drain all the water into the down spouts.  The front of our home has three (3) down spouts and the rear of our home has four (4) down spouts.

Yesterday, 05-25-2020 I went onto the roof and inspected the gutter system and did notice there was some debris from the right side of the chimney to the gutter spout, but it was not clogged up.  The debris was from the large white oak tree in the front yard that is very near our home.  I removed the debris in the gutter, "tassels" called catkin and noticed that the gutter was loose, meaning the nails holding it to the facer board had backed out at least 1/2 inch and maybe one was missing altogether.  I believe the loose nails is the gutter is the problem allowing the front of the gutter to be positioned more downward causing the overflow.

The gutter system has a support bracket that goes from the top outer portion of the gutter to the inside of the gutter and secured through the galvanized metal protective strip called an eave strip or drip edge into the facer board and end of the rafter, of which the rafters are spaced sixteen (16) inches on center.  The ends of the rafters are boxed in with a facer board and the underside of the overhang (eave) is covered with 1/4 inch plywood if I am not mistaken.  

In the past, I have nailed and screwed the gutters back in place, of which nails are a poor way to fasten them in place; I believe screws are much better even though screws have been known to back out over time due to expansion and contraction due to the temperature fluctuation. 

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED

The front of our home requires a 10 to 11 feet A frame ladder due wall height above ground and the low roof pitch angle and the nearly three (3) feet of roof (eave) overhang.  A regular fixed or adjustable telescopic length ladder would require a large stand off to make contact with the roof line and/or below the (eave) overhang against the wall and as stated with the low roof pitch, really isn't feasible, but is doable.  You definitely do not want to rest your ladder on the gutter itself.

I will be using a 5/16 inch hex head sheet metal screw (self-tapping) size # 10 with a length of 1.5 inches, however a 1 inch screw should work ok, but I wanted the screw to go through the facer board which is probably 3/4 inch or more in thickness into the end of the rafter.

The gutter is 5 inches wide and you need a 5/16 inch hex head driver with a shaft length of 5 plus inches that extends past the end of the drill chuck.  I had a 6 inch length driver and had to locate an extension.  I went to three places here in Wadesboro, NC and could not find a driver longer than 6 inches, however I did find a 3 inch extension that gave me the required length needed.

In the past, I believe I used a flexible drive shaft and 5/16 inch socket and/or # 2 Phillips driver with a portable drill and was akin to an inflamed hemorrhoid.

The holding support bracket that strengthened the gutter which as stated earlier was spaced 16 inch on center, I predrilled the existing hole to 3/16 inch diameter to match the body of the # 10 steel metal screw.

Above pix of the Wing Little Giant ladder model 10126 which is a monster to use!  This ladder weighs 52 pounds and it is about impossible to use it as an extension ladder due to the weight and trying to telescope it out.  If you have Gorilla DNA, this ladder might be a breeze to use.

I did a product review of the ladder hyperlinked here:  http://portercalls.com/wing_ladder.htm

Below are a few thumbnail pixs:

Click on each thumbnail pix for a larger screen view:

There were several nails that were used in between the 16 inches center to center spacing of the rafters and removed the nails and used a flat washer on the screw.

The end of the gutter on the far right was a little problem getting the ladder into position due to the trees and the ground had a slope to it, but managed.  The ladder next to the wall has an adjustable length member to level the ladder up and used wide pieces of plywood to level the front right hand side of the lower ladder leg.

It took several hours which included a lunch break and rounding up additional screws needed; I was a couple screws short.  The gutter is now "tighter than two coats of paint" against the facer board!

This gutter repair should hopefully last beyond when my bride and myself are "raptured" away or we are in the grave, of which I am not rushing the grave part!  

GUTTER REPAIRS DECK AREA

I ordered a 3/16 inch diameter drill bit x 8 inches in length just for gutter maintenance and used it to tighten up the gutter on the back of our home.

I used a smaller and lighter A frame aluminum ladder and removed loose nails from the gutter brackets and installed 1.5 inch length # 10 sheet metal screws as on the front of our home.  The longer drill bit made the repair very easy since I could keep the drill bit more parallel with the gutter bracket. 

I want to thank God through Jesus Christ our Lord and Savior for his safety and protection, because ladder usage is high risk, even for a young man!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-26-2020 and 06-10-2020..

OUTSIDE SPIGOT REPAIRS

The outside spigot on the front of our home has a steady slow drip at both the valve and the handle.

Our home was built somewhere around 1956 by Ackerman Construction Co. and after about forty (40) years, the majority of inside and outside plumbing for most homes is in need of replacement; e.g., sink drain lines, water traps, faucets and fixtures for bathrooms and/or showers.  I believe all but one of the sink drain lines, traps, faucets, etc. have been replaced over the years.  Homes built during that era in our area used galvanized steel for sink and bathtub drain lines that were routed into the main 4 inch cast iron sewage line to the septic tank.  The problem with galvanized steel, where the pipe is threaded leaves raw unprotected metal which will rust out over 3 or 4 decades as with our home.  As stated, all those galvanized lines have been replaced except one in my bride's dressing and therapy room bathroom, of which I plan to replace the sink, commode and water lines in the future.

We also have all the grey water from all the sinks except one and the main shower removed from the main septic system and routed into a separate drain line bypassing the septic system.  The removal of grey water from the septic system doesn't place a strain on its efficiency.

The outside solid brass spigots are soldered and/or screwed into a brass line and would be a pain to have to replace the entire spigot and wanted to attempt a repair first.  If the solid brass spigot is screwed into a brass threaded fitting that is soldered onto the copper supply line, it is not accessible from the outside or inside as far as putting a wrench on it to unscrew the spigot from the soldered and threaded fitting.  I have some experience repairing plumbing issues and most of the time the part needs replacing versus repairing, but I felt this spigot might be repairable and understand that items this old will have rotten or corroded parts such as screws, rubber washers/gaskets, etc. and was prepared for such.

Above is a pix of the outside spigot.  I definitely need to upgrade the disposable baking pan to a more permanent concrete or plastic gutter drain base.................grin if you must!

REPAIR PROCEDURES

I first cut the water supply off in our basement and opened several faucets inside the home and one outside spigot to allow the water to quickly drain from the line.  I applied Kroll penetrating oil to the brass bonnet nut, however I don't think it was necessary.

I used a large adjustable wrench and a pair of large Channellock pliers to remove the valve stem assembly which includes the handle.  I detest the usage of an adjustable wrench and Channellock pliers, but do not have large open end wrenches large enough for such.  These tools first mentioned can deform and damage nuts beyond repair if frequently used.

The valve stem was removed by turning the large 1.25 inch diameter bonnet nut counter clockwise while holding the spigot brass housing and then turning the valve stem assembly counter clockwise to remove the entire stem.  I quickly noticed that the head of the screw that held the rubber washer in place in the end of the valve stem was corroded entirely off leaving only about 3/32 inch length of the screw remaining.  The rubber valve stem washer fell off into the catch pan.

I don't think this spigot had ever been taken apart prior to our purchase of the home in 1989 in my humble opinion!

I saturated the screw body with Kroll penetrating oil which is much better than WD40 for loosening things, however the screw would not turn and broke off, having to drill it partly out.

Below are a few thumbnail pixs of the procedure of which I will narrate:

Click on the above thumbnail pixs for a larger screen view.

I have an assortment of screws and rubber washers that my good friend and neighbor Johnny Hildreth (now deceased) which I believe he had given me for this type of repair many years ago or I had purchased a small repair kit; I can't remember for sure, but leaning toward Johnny giving the parts to me!

I measured the body of a new brass replacement screw and it was 10-24 threads.  I used an antiquated Dremel Moto Tool and grind rock to flush the screw body with the valve stem.  I then used a center punch to mark the approximate center of the screw body and drilled the screw body with a 120 degree countersink and then with a 9/64 inch diameter 118 degree drill bit.  I then drilled the hole using a # 25 drill bit and used a 10-24 tap to rethread the hole in the valve stem.  While doing so, the remaining portion of the original screw body came out with the tap.  Luckily, there was plenty of original threads remaining in the valve stem and the threads just tapped for the replacement 10-24 brass screw to have a good tight fit with the rubber washer in place.

I used string type packing material for the packing nut which has graphite in it and then some round solid Teflon string material.

HISTORICAL NOTE

The small tap and die set depicted above in the bottom right hand pix was purchased in the early 1970s when I had my mail order Musical Instrument Repair and Banjo Company.  When I sold the bulk of the woodworking and metal working tools and equipment to John Bowels of Advance, NC. around 1979-80, I kept my drill bit sets which includes fractional, letter and number drills and the above tap and die set, of which I have used many, many times since then along with a Brown and Sharp dial caliper. 

ACID TEST

The valve stem assembly was placed back into the valve body/spigot and hand tightened the valve and then used the adjustable wrench and the Channellock pliers to tighten the bonnet nut.  I did not want to attempt to remove the spigot handle and in all probably the screw that holds the handle to the valve stem would break off.  I was hoping the bonnet packing material would work.

The repair was a success with the leaks stopped at this time.  I need to remove the main hose adapter connection and apply some Teflon tape around the threads of the spigot to not have any water dripping there when the spigot is in use.  The wet area on the spigot is from the Kroll penetrating oil.

NOTE:  Before I repair the other two outside faucets aka spigots, I will have a small set of easy out extractor tools in case I need to remove a broken off screw and find the proper bonnet packing washer.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-01-2020.

LOCATED ORIGINAL TYPE BONNET PACKING

I attempted to find an original replacement part for the 1956 circa outside spigots locally and on line, but all the major suppliers such as Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. did not stock the part I needed.

Below is the actual worn out part taken from one of the three (3) spigots, of which I use two of the spigots regularly.

Below is the part I found on line that is manufactured by Prier and is for outside spigots/hydrants, etc.:

The part number is Prier C-134KT-803 stem packing replacement kit for C-134/135/144/154.  The kit also comes with a flat metal washer.  The part is a little pricy (over priced) at 12 to 14 bucks, but it is what I needed and ordered a couple of them.  I later found one including shipping for $ 9.55.

I contacted one of the vendors to ascertain the actual size of the part before ordering and it matched the original stem packing on our spigots.

When the parts arrive, I will install the correct replacement part.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-05-2020.

REPAIR UPDATE

The Teflon string stem packing material used as a temporary repair lasted a couple days and had a slow leak when the spigot was open and I received the Prier stem packing replacement kit yesterday and installed it on the stem and it fit like a glove stopping the water drip at the stem when the spigot was opened.  Removing the screw that held the handle in place was touch and go and was "tighter than two coats of paint", but it finally yield to the pressure of the screwdriver along with some Kroll penetrating oil and glad the screw was steel instead of brass.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-09-2020.

ALUMINUM/VINYL DOOR THRESHOLD WEATHER STRIP

Our front door aluminum threshold with a vinyl center weather strip was needing the weather strip replaced.  Lowe's in Monroe had nearly an identical threshold and I only had to replace the weather strip insert.

The door to the carport aluminum threshold was banged up pretty bad and replaced the entire unit, of which I had to cut to length and notch out a place at each end to fit and drill pilot holes for the Phillip's head wood screws.  I used the original threshold as a pattern and cut it using a regular hacksaw.  Nothing high tech there......grin if you must!

The front door to the living room threshold was perfect; snug as a bug, however the threshold to the carport was "tighter than two coats of paint" and will see how the vinyl seal wears.  It required a threshold that was 3 3/4 inches wide, whereas the front door width was a shade over 3 inches in width. 

NOTE:  Using my Milwaukee "skill saw" and home made wooden saw guide, I removed about 1/8 inch from the bottom of the door.  Doors installed during the 1950s era, the bottom of the door has about a two (2) degree taper to allow the door when closing not to draw on the threshold and the gap between the door and the threshold would tighten up as you close the door. 

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-15-2020.

TOMATOES BEGINNING TO RIPEN

This past week or more of rain and with the warmer aka hotter weather pattern, the tomato patch is beginning to show the results of the rain and the temperature, etc.

The larger tomato on the left is just about ready for our first home grown tomato sandwich of the season.  Can you say "beautimous" out loud?  We did enjoy it for sure!

The 1900 silver dollar in the pix for reference size!

We have already been "snacking" on the smaller cherry aka salad tomatoes and they have a wonderful flavor that a store bought tomato can not provide.

I can visualize a club sandwich and a BLT in the future!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-22-2020.

UPDATE:  We enjoyed our first club sandwich this afternoon....outstanding.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-29-2020.

ROOF TURBINE VENTILATOR MAINTENANCE

I noticed today (06-26-2020) in the afternoon that the turbine in the right of the below pix was turning very slow and had a squeak in it and knew it needed oiling.  I can't remember the last time I applied lubricant to the ventilators or what type of oil I used.  I believe I sprayed oil on them from the roof instead of going into the attic which reminds me of sardines in their packaged tin can, because the opening to access the attic from one of the bedroom closets has a 17 inch square opening and I can barely get my large frame through the opening.  The hard part is getting onto the top shelf of the closet and then maneuvering yourself through the opening, of which you can not turn around while on top of the closet shelf.....getting back down is even more challenging!

I got the light weight A frame aluminum ladder out and a can of RemOil which has Teflon in it's composition and thought this would be a quick fix for sure.  I had my under shorts on and no gloves and it didn't take but a second of two to regroup because as soon as I placed my right hand onto the hot shingles in order to get onto the roof, my hand felt like it was on fire.

I quickly got off the A frame ladder and went back inside and removed my shoes and put some long pants on and a pair of gloves.  I went back onto the roof and sprayed the RemOil where the bearings were located, but the nozzle was to short on the RemOil can to adequately get the lubricant onto the top and bottom bearing surfaces.

I decided to give it another try tomorrow morning when it is much cooler without the shingles being super hot and will use an oil can which has some 30 weight motor oil in it sporting a push lever pump which should get the oil onto the bearings.  I now believe that is what I used last time, but not certain.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-26-2020. 

NOTE:  I went again onto the roof the morning of 06-27-2020 and applied some 30 wgt. oil to the bearings and the right turbine will turn, but it is not as sensitive to the wind movement as the left turbine.  In all probability, I will need to lube the turbine from inside the attic come cold weather.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-27-2020.  

EVAPORATOR COIL DRAIN PAN OVER FLOWING

A few days ago+-, (06-25-2020) I noticed water on the basement concrete floor and at the base of the plenum (In building construction, a plenum (pronounced PLEH-nuhm, from Latin meaning full) is a separate space provided for air circulation for heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning (sometimes referred to as HVAC) and typically provided in the space between the structural ceiling and a drop-down ceiling, of which our heating/cooling system is called a split system, meaning separate heating and cooling units, utilizing the plenum air handler for both.

The evaporator coil is located inside the plenum at one end and the Freon lines are routed to an outside 3 ton unit.

I have experienced one other time (clogged evaporator coil drain) with a very old Sears cooling system that came with our home purchase of 1989,  Many homes back in 1956 when this house was built, did not have central air as this home did not, only central heat, whereas our neighbor Johnny Hildreth (now deceased) installed the Sears unit along with adding an additional air return chamber and return duck work, etc. 

That older Sears system has since been replaced with a larger more efficient unit manufactured by Trane, however the original 3/4 inch PVC piping that went from the evaporator coil drain pan to the cast iron drain clean out plug access in the basement concrete floor was used, or at least most of it anyway.

The PVC drain line does not have a way to access the evaporator coil drain pan or the cast iron drain line clean out plug to the septic tank without physically cutting the PVC in order to ascertain if the evaporator coil drain pan is clogged up or the line going into the cast iron clean out plug is clogged and/or the cast iron drain line itself to the septic tank.  The cast iron port just mentioned is also called a clean out plug.

Below is a pix which looks like a plumber with excess PVC fittings......grin if you must

The above PVC drain line has a built in trap to keep sewer gases from entering into the plenum.  As evidenced from the pix, you can see where the PVC has been cut before and joined back together to access the cast iron sewer port.  The above is in one corner of the basement that was originally a basement garage, but I turned it into a work shop.  The PVC tubing is actually hanging down on the right side because I cut it loose at the evaporator coil drain access.

I used a large fan to dry it out to ascertain if the problem was the evaporator coil pan or the PVC drain line, of which the evaporator coil pan had a restricted flow and freed the obstruction buildup with a wood dowel rod and length of wire.  A wet/dry vacuum would be much better hooked directly to the evaporator coil drain pan line.

Water dripping pretty good now from the evaporator coil drain pan and exit line.

I have a five (5) gallon bucket under the evaporator drain output to catch the water which started flowing real well.  Since yesterday, I have emptied the 5 gallon bucket a few times and keep watch on it until I complete the repairs.

I used the extension from my miter saw which was perfect for holding the bucket in place.  I have the PVC drain line secured to the board with a shoe string.....grin if you must!  I just noticed that the board above is curly maple; man what was I thinking when I used that piece of high dollar wood!

The entire evaporator drain line was supported only by the output stub PVC at the evaporator drain pan and will correct that later.

I went by The Wadesboro Lumber Barn which is our local building supply and purchased a 20 feet piece of 3/4 inch PVC and enough fittings to redo the entire drain line if necessary, however I have to go to Rockingham, NC to Walmart for some grocery and medical supplies and will pick up additional connectors at Lowe's where I can disconnect the line from the evaporator coil and the cast iron drain line port without having to cut the PVC pipe and reconnect it.

I also plan to add an in line cut-off valve and affix an adapter on the side away from the evaporator coil where I can attached a hose pipe and flush the drain line system if needed in the future.  I plan to use a flexible rubber coupling (radiator hose) from the evaporator drain pan output PVC pipe with a couple stainless steel hose clamps where I can remove the PVC drain line as needed.

I will also add a flexible rubber coupling near the input to the cast iron drain port if needing to remove the line to access the cast iron drain port/plug.  However, I decided not to do it at this time.

I will gather the required materials and complete the job on Monday.  I don't like doing any work on Sunday, unless it is an absolute emergency, whereby honoring God's Holy day of worship.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-27-2020.

EVAPORATOR DRAIN LINE REFURBISHED

With water flowing freely from the evaporator drain pan, I wanted to ascertain if there was a problem with the PVC drain line going into the cast iron sewer clean out plug which was originally adapted with a couple fittings for the 3/4 inch PVC drain line.

As stated earlier in what I planned to do to the line, I obtained a piece of radiator hose which has a one (1) inch inside diameter which tightly fits 3/4 inch PVC pipe which has an outside diameter of 1.058 inches manufactured by Charlotte Pipe PVC.  I added a PVC ball cut-off valve in line and added a tee fitting which had a threaded port for an adapter for a standard hose pipe to flush the drain line system out. 

A section of 2 x 4 was screwed into a wall stud to support the weight of the PVC drain line, relieving pressure from the evaporator drain pan connection and adjusted the line for a downward tilt for proper drainage.

I added another 2 x 4 support at the other end of the drain line.

I did not glue the section of PVC to the right angle elbow on the left at the hose connection at the evaporator pan to make certain everything was draining properly before I glued it in place.  I hooked the garden hose to the tee fitting adapter port, turned the ball valve to the closed position, turned the water on and ran water through the line.  I also added some cleaner to the line as well.

I turned the water hose off, removed the tee fitting hose adapter, placed a plug in the threaded tee port, opened the in line ball cut off valve and turned the AC back on.  So far the evaporator drain pan and drain line are working ok, but will keep watch on it every hour or two to be certain there is no back up and/or overflow from the evaporator drain pan.

One of the stainless steel hose band clamps was a little small and will replace it with a larger one.  I don't like the alignment of the two hose clamps...........grin if you must.

I like the looks of the hose clamp placement now.  I will later clean off the area where the plenum rests onto the furnace, wire brush it down and spray some protective paint on the rusted surfaces.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-29-2020.

UPDATE:  I located a PVC uni-coupling for the above drain line which allows you to disconnect the line in the event you need to clean out the drain pan and/or service the evaporator coils, whereas I am using the radiator hose and clamps to accomplish the same thing at this time.     

MARVIN GOODWIN CLEANED OUTSIDE UNIT COILS

I contacted Marvin Goodwin and he came by on 07-16-2020 and cleaned the coils on the outside unit.  I have done it in the past, but Marvin has access to much stronger professional coil cleaner that I do and is a pro in the heating and air business.  Marvin sold/retired his business Goodwin Heating and Air and now maintains his own rental properties, but does do work for some of the customers he has installed units for.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 07-16-2020.

FUTURE PROJECT FOR FALL OF THE YEAR

When it gets time to do the maintenance of our fuel oil furnace, I plan to change out the jury aka jerry rig fuel cut-off valve that is placed right ahead of the fuel oil pump.  The line that goes into the in line cut off valve is right in the way and if you bump or step on it, a leak will occur, of which the fittings are about as tight and as close together as you can get them.

Close up view of the fittings mentioned above.  Need the shopvac for sure!

As you can see, the 3/8 inch flare fittings are close together and that is where a slow leak will happen if you move the line, etc.  BTW, I did not install that jury aka jerry rig......grin if you must!

I plan to install a Firomatic safety cut off valve which is a code requirement in some states.

I will probably reuse the current in line fuel cut off valve and place it at the output of the in line General fuel filter which is located in the far corner of the basement behind the furnace.  Most installs, place the fuel filter at the output of the fuel oil tank, but we have two above ground tanks feeding into one incoming line and each tank has its own cut off valve.  In super cold weather, fuel oil has been known to get to the consistency of pancake system, of which definitely restricts its flow.

Most homes and buildings up north have their fuel oil tanks in the basement to prevent the fuel oil from freezing or jelling up as I just mentioned.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-30-2020. 

GETTING ANTSY

Today is Thursday July 9, 2020 and we have had some rain off and on the past couple days and getting a little antsy being inside. 

I had the above fuel oil project scheduled for fall of the year when I will do my annual maintenance on the fuel oil furnace, however I decided to go ahead and install a couple cut-off valves of which the one next to the fuel oil pump on the burner will be the safety cut-off valve above pix which is made by Firomatic.  I knew it was going to be close work on the Firomatic cut-off valve because the burner is very close to concrete floor not leaving much room to bend the copper tubing.  BTW, 3/8 inch copper tubing made fifty (50) or more years ago is very difficult to bend into a tight radius without some type of mechanical tube bender.  The current tubing is very soft and easy to bend.

My first project was to add a regular cut-off valve next to the General 1A-25 in line fuel filter.  The cut-off valve I have has a 3/8 inch flare fitting at both ends and didn't want the cut-off valve away from the fuel filter which would require a short length of tubing plus a couple 3/8 inch flare fittings, of which they do have available as installed on the cut-off valve next to the fuel pump, of which I do not like the arrangement.  I got a couple adapters at one of our local automatic parts supply houses, C& M Auto Supply here in Wadesboro, NC.

Below is pix of the General 1A-25 fuel oil filter in the far corner of the basement:

I have a 5 gallon bucket underneath the filter to catch what remaining fuel oil is in the line coming from the fuel oil tanks, although I have a cut-off valve at each fuel oil tank that is hooked in parallel with the fuel oil line coming into the basement to access the furnace.     

I used some blue liquid Teflon by Block to the fittings.  I later poured about half the container out onto the concrete floor where the General filter is located....my bad for sure since that stuff is not cheap!

I will get some cat litter and soak up the wasted liquid Teflon and scrap it off the concrete floor.

The adapters allows you to go from a 3/8 inch flare fitting to a 3/8 inch NPT fitting, of which the 3/8 inch NPT outside diameter of the fitting is approximately .675 inches. 

Once the cut off valve was installed into the General 1A-25 filter housing, the fuel oil supply line was attached to the other side of the cut-off valve.  I could not orientate the cut-off valve to the vertical position which would look much better; didn't have enough strength to move it any further.

I changed the replaceable filter which was still in pretty good shape, but it is best to change the filter each year, whereas they are not that expensive and do catch a lot of "muck" aka sediment, water, etc., from the fuel oil tanks.

The filter comes with a new black rubber gasket and two smaller red gaskets.

I opened one of the cut-off valves at the fuel oil tank and opened the cut-off valve just installed, bled the filter of air and tightened the small bolt that allows air to escape from the filter housing and checked for fuel oil leaks, of which none were detected.

FIROMATIC SAFETY CUT-OFF VALVE INSTALLED

Below is the fuel oil burner assembly with the old cut-off valve installed:

I found out very quickly that the 3/8 inch diameter copper tubing manufactured fifty (50) years or more ago is a lot stronger (tensile strength) than current manufactured copper tubing.  It was about impossible to make a tight radius in the tubing even with an Elcheapo hand bender.  I plan later to add a right angle adapter to the bottom of the Firomatic safety cut-off valve.

I opened the in line fuel oil cut-off valve next to the General oil filter and did not detect any leaks.  Come fall of the year, I will no doubt change the above fitting to a right angle, but if there is not a problem, will probably leave everything as it is.  There is an ole saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

I closed the cut-off valves at the fuel oil tank, General fuel filter and the Firomatic cut-off safety valve.

The copper fuel oil supply line is not in the way as before.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 07-09-2020.

NOTE:  I bled the fuel oil system to the pump, oiled the drive motor and squirrel cage blower fan.  The blower motor has sealed bearings.  The unit fired right up and was running clean, therefore didn't change out the nozzle or mess with the electrodes.  I did this routine maintenance sometime in early October 2020, but didn't log an exact date.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 10-26-2020.

FUTURE TREE REMOVAL

This year, I noticed an American Sweetgum tree on our property that started dying and it is now dead which presents a future safety hazard since I park my truck in a couple places on our lower gravel drive that would be in its fall path depending on high wind direction and other variables. 

In its natural fall path are some small Crepe Myrtle trees and also a Magnolia tree that I have cut back over the years and it keeps coming back and decided to leave it alone.

I believe I can change the tree's fall path by attaching a chain about 30 feet up the tree using one of my foot climber tree stands to get me to that elevation and using a chain drive coffin hoist come-a-long anchored to another tree to the left of the sweet gum tree, pull the tree in that direction.

I have done that many times in the past on our property and have only had to use a tree removal service only two (2) times during the past thirty one (31) years that we have been here.

See my Star of David Pine Tree short story which depicts how I will go about cutting this tree down.

Thinking back about 25 years ago, I remember letting some home heating fuel heating oil # 2 escape from an oil tank that a friend had given me, of which I eventually gave the oil tank to my brother Allen Porter to make a BBQ cooker.  There was a very large Pine tree that also succumbed to the fuel oil leakage and when it fell, went straight down the gravel drive way and caused no damage.

I will post pixs here when I start and complete this project.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 08-08-2020.

NEED A COMMON SENSE REFRESHER COURSE

Around 0754 this morning, I gathered up the required items needed to complete the tree removal which consisted of a Husqvarna model 55 chainsaw, a couple heavy chains, coffin hoist type chain drive hoist, foot climber climbing tree stand, gloves, rope and a small folding saw.

I used my US Patent 4,953,662 hunting foot climber tree stand I made many moons ago for a very large tree at the Anson County Airport on the land that was owned by Pines Davis, now deceased and it has definitely been used for a couple or more tree removals on our property.  I believe this tree stand will go around a 24 inch diameter tree if I am not mistaken.

The chain I have used in the past with much success is 75 feet long, but can't remember the tonnage, but it will do the job for sure pulling trees in the direction that I need them to fall.

I have the chain attached to the end of the red rope and climbed up the tree about 25 to 30 feet and had to remove a few small limbs that were in the way as I ascended the tree.  I definitely said a prayer before tacking the climbing.

I hooked the chain off and used a piece of rope to go around the chain hook to hopefully prevent it from coming loose from the chain.  I had a couple class 8 bolts and nuts for this type of job to secure the chain instead of using the chain hooks which can come loose, however I placed it somewhere; grin if you must!

I believe I might have had enough chain to pull from a direction to the left and behind the Sweetgum tree, but didn't think that far ahead.  The tree probably would have fallen exactly where I wanted it by not allowing the tree to swing in an arch as it fell to the ground....my bad! 

Before doing any serious tightening up on the chain, I cut a wedge from the Sweetgum tree and then tightened up on the coffin hoist.

I completed the back cut on the tree and it easily fell without hanging up in the large white oak tree.  It didn't fall exactly where I wanted it to by about 5 or 6 feet, but close enough for Govt. work as they say.

The tree would normally have fallen facing the camera direction.

With the tree on the ground, the ole Husky got a good workout, not to mention yours truly for sure.  I was soaking wet with sweat in no time flat.  A chainsaw will whip a fat man in a manner of minutes!

The base of the tree had a large hollow cavity in it and was rotten several feet upward being an accident fixing to happen.   The next time I am out back, I will pull a tape across the tree to ascertain the diameter.

The tree is 16 inches in diameter and you can see the rotten hollow center portion.

The base of the tree is hollow as well.

I worked about four (4) hours and left the larger blocks cut to further dry out before relocating them in a gulley beside this dirt/gravel lower driveway which is used to access the basement woodworking shop and my deer hanging white oak tree I nick named Tom Dooley aka Dula.

I loaded all the gear onto the truck instead of hauling it back using the hand truck.  That is about the only working smarter not harder that I did this morning!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 08-10-2020 and 08-11-2020.

MORNING MEDITATION

I have a couple short stores titled morning meditation, of which I enjoy setting on our front yard swing and reflecting on how great and wonderful God is and thank Him for his many blessing through Jesus Christ our Lord and Savior.

After my daily morning Bible reading and study, I will  head to the swing depending on the weather of course and/or other priorities and it is such a peaceful and relaxing time early of the morning before the sun rises in the East.  Normally, the wind is calm and the birds continue their morning "singing" as well, of which they start sometime before and around daybreak.

This morning, I decided to water the front lawn and the hillside lawn after I watered our tomato plants which has not produced many slicing tomatoes this year, but have enjoyed the cherry tomatoes.  Hopefully, those late tomatoes will bear some good tomatoes for a few wonderful tomato sandwiches, BLTs and of course my bride's favorite Club Sandwich and is slowing becoming my favorite too!

While watching the sprinkler in the front yard adjusted for a circular path of water, I decided to take a pix or two of the droplets of water falling very near where I was sitting on the swing and brought the ole antiquated Canon 35MM DSLR camera and "snap" a few pixs.

As evidenced by the pixs, it doesn't take too much to make myself happy and entertained with a good grin going in the process.  

The small things in Life go unnoticed by the hustle and bustle of the busy crowd and I enjoy taking time out to "smell the roses."

It reminds me of a sermon our Pastor Sam Abee gave titled, "The Crowd or the Cloud."

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 08-13-2020.