COFFEE TABLE - MISSION STYLE
For sometime, I have wanted to build a coffee table of the
Mission style using curly maple wood. However, I haven't had much success finding some 6/4 thick curly maple that
will give me at least a 1 inch thick top. The Mission style design of
coffee table is rather bold, yet fairly simple in style with vertical and
not requiring a large array or inventory of tools and equipment to build.
As with my MO, I want to go just
a little beyond the simplest Mission style of coffee table and incorporate
two or three storage drawers underneath the top and also an open storage shelf on
the lower level, yet stay away from curved lines of construction for the
support rails or bands underneath the top, staying with the traditional
Mission style of design.
Most Mission style coffee tables that I have viewed via the internet has
straight square legs and most with a lower storage shelf that doesn't extend
all the way to the front or the back, of which I like that design.
size of the Mission style coffee tables are in the vicinity of 48 inches
length, 24 inch wide and around 17 to 19 inches in height and do not follow
golden rule ratio of 1.6 as to width versus length, but will do a simple
cardboard type mock-up before committing to a certain size. This
project will be mostly mortise and tenon construction with some wood dowels
and glue to secure the members together. I do not plan to use an all
the way through tenon with the end exposed as does some traditional Mission
styles use. The top will have biscuits
and glue and will require two separate glue ups of less than 13 inches in
width, if I decide to run the units through my surface planer before gluing
the two separate panels together. If the glue joints are level enough,
will not need to surface plane them, but use the 4 x 24 inch belt sander for
the initial leveling, etc. I might locate a cabinet shop that has an
abrasive belt sanding machine to do the final sanding/leveling since curly
maple is prone to chip out and can ruin a project if the chip out is severe
As stated earlier, I need some 6/4 curly maple wood for the top which will
surface plane down to at least one inch to give it the boldness look that I
am after. I had some 4/4 curly maple left over from my serving trays
project with some of the wood around 7/8 inch in thickness and most being
around 3/4 inch in thickness which will work for the back and side rail
members and the lower shelf.
I purchased a 20 board feet bundle of 6/4 curly maple wood from
Lumber Company in Mayodan, NC, and had them surface plane it down to 1.140
inches in thickness, however only a couple pieces in the bundle was what I would grade as
AAA material, with the balance a grade A or less without a lot of figure or curl to
it, but it should be doable. I received the wood on 06-02-17.
Below a couple pixs of some of the left over curly maple from the
I had a couple wide pieces of decent looking figured curly maple wood about 24
inches long that was 8/4 or two inches in thickness and ripped them for a 3
inch square glue up for the legs which might be too thick, but can always
reduce the size if needed. I will "eye
ball" the projects to ascertain what size legs looks the
Some decent figured curly maple above.
I used Titebond Ultimate III glue and plenty of clamps.
Pix of the Titebond Ultimate Glue III. I have used Titebond glue
for decades and pleased with it.
I did the above glue up on the legs back on August 29, 2016 and they
definitely should be cured out by now; grin if you must! My curly
maple supplier Dustin Hensley in Gray, Kentucky wasn't able to get me 1 inch thick planed boards
as of yet, that were 48 inch in length for the coffee table top and finally had to use
an alternate source. The alternate source's curly maple wood cannot
touch the quality of what I got from
Border Maple Specialties in Gray, Kentucky.
Centuries ago, Kentucky was known for its
Kentucky Flintlock long rifle which most of the time had a highly
figured curly maple stock from local harvested maple trees.
WALL LUMBER COMPANY CURLY MAPLE
Below pixs of the 20 board feet of curly maple from
Wall Lumber Company,
Letting the wood acclimate to my woodworking shop humidity.
I will let the wood air dry (acclimate) to my basement woodworking shop
normal humidity for about a month. I checked the moisture content with
a pin type moisture meter manufactured by Electrophysics and it was a little
over six (6) percent, however I couldn't locate the meter case which
contained the conversion chart for other woods, since it is calibrated
and/or based for a wood such as Douglas fir. I emailed the manufacture
to obtain the conversion chart. The wood is definitely dry though!
Web published by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-02-17.
ANOTHER FIXTURE 06-27-17
A few days ago, one of my cousins called and wanted me to check on her
Mom and Dad's home that has been vacant since her Dad passed away a couple
years ago, whereas someone had broken into the home from the rear back porch,
breaking a section of the glass door giving them access to the locking
I surveyed the scene and purchased a sheet of 4' x 8' x 3/4 inch birch
plywood and cut a section 29 x 36 inches from one end and installed it over
the glass portion of the door, whereby I had plenty of excess material to
construct a simple fixture 12" x 65" to trim irregular and/or not
straight pieces of wood without having to bandsaw a rough straight edge and
then true it up on the joiner/planer. I can install a couple DeStaCo
clamps or use simple wood blocks positioned as levers with the aid of 3/8
inch diameter threaded rods anchored into countersunk locking nuts from
underneath the fixture.
The fixture will have a long runner aka slat that will snugly fit the miter groove
width in my
table saw top, whereas it will track north and south without any side to side
movement and any hangover off the edge adjacent the table saw circular blade
will be trimmed away using a rip blade with a zero tolerance insert. Once I have a good straight
edge on the edge of the board, I can then use my regular table saw fence to
true the other edge up and to whatever width I desire. I want to keep
the top members around 6 to 7 inches in width for the glue up and end up a
24 inch wide coffee table top, however I might have it a couple inches less
I started today, by ripping a 12 inch wide piece from the 3/4 x 48 x 65
inch Birch plywood panel. I already had some left over (unallocated) red
oak material that had been resized to the 3/4 inch width of the table saw
miter groove and ripped four (4) pieces a little less than 3/8 inch in thickness.
I placed the red oak slats into the table saw miter groove aka slot; used two
of them and
elevated them with a copper penny and a piece of .025 stainless steel shim
stock off the bottom of the groove; ran a bead of Titebond Ultimate III glue on the slats and placed
the 12 x 65 x 3/4 inch piece of birch plywood on top of the slats aka
runners which was a little proud
of the table saw top surface, whereas I will run the fixture across the saw
blade once all four miter
slats are in place. I used a couple pieces of lead material
weights to apply pressure and will allow the glue to cure overnight. I will
then, glue the other two runners aka slats in place, which will take two more gluing
operations due to the placement of the slats on the birch plywood trim
fixture. When all four (4) sectional runners are glued in place, I
will countersink some flathead screws from the bottom of the runners.
The clamping devices will be installed and make some type of handle to
assist in pushing the fixture across the table saw. This is a lot of
extra work, whereas I could simply use the bandsaw and jointer/planer, but I
want to get a finish cut parallel board for a good tight glue up for the coffee
table top. I am sure this trim fixture will be used on other future
projects as well, if the
Lord will of course! I have a couple
shorter trim fixtures, but this trim fixture should handle up to a 5' length
board, of which I plan to have the end toggle clamps positioned for a 4'
board. I doubt I will install 1/4 x 20 wood screw inserts, but simply
use wood screws to hold the clamps in place.
Click on thumbnail pixs below for a larger screen view:
Webpage updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-28-17.
TRIM FIXTURE CONTINUES 06-29-17
Since I already had some 1/4 x 20 tpi wood inserts, I decided to install
them for the mounting of two DeStaCo 235-U toggle clamps. I had one extra
toggle clamp and "borrowed" one off a fixture not currently in use
and do not foresee using that fixture anytime soon.
With the toggle clamps installed, it was time to start trimming the sides
of the 4' curly maple boards.
The fixture worked great, but the red oak runners were just a little snug
width wise in the table top miter saw slots, but will loosen up some with
usage. It took a little extra manual effort to push the fixture across
the table saw and supported the front overhanging end with the aid of a
roller stand designed for that purpose.
With all the boards trimmed with one good parallel edge, I trimmed the
opposite side using the table saw fence with the trued edge and ripped the wider boards in half.
There will be enough material for the top and also the side members. I
have enough material on hand for the lower shelf which doesn't have to be
but around 3/4 inch in thickness. The top is around 1.140 inches and
has a bold look to it. I haven't decide whether I will route a
decorative edge on it or not, but the Mission style has a square edge and
will probably go with that. It would be less chance to ruin the top
with a the straight square edge versus the edge with a decorative border since curly maple can chip and blow out quickly
due to the tight curly grain structure,
even when doing everything right!
Checked the tightness of the joints to see what they looked like; appears
TOP GLUE UP
I planned for five (5) biscuits installed in each board glue-up and took
my time and only glued two boards together at a time, rather than try and do
the entire five board glue-up. The Titebond Ultimate III glue has a twenty minute
open glue time, but in reality it is about half that time and didn't want to
take a chance and have the glue sitting up before adequate clamping pressure
applied. I have messed up
before during a glue-up and didn't want that
to happen again. It is best to do it right the first time!
I used a total of twenty (20) # 20 biscuits and tightened the bar clamps just tight
enough to get a good tight glue line fit, without squeezing all the glue
from the joint. I used a small horse hair plumbers acid flux brush to
apply glue to each board, the biscuits and biscuit slots. I plan to
obtain a dedicated glue tip bottle just for biscuit joints which is much
more efficient than the horse hair brushes.
The five boards fits together real well and should not be a problem to
sand everything flush and flat using either my 4 x 24 inch belt sander
and/or the orbital sander finishing off with the two Porter-Cable palm
I let each glue-up rest twenty four hours before the next glue up; this
wouldn't work on production, grin if you must! I will square up the
ends on the table saw using a trim fixture and rip the width to size.
I plan to position the 3 inch square legs and do a mockup and see if they
are too large for eye appeal for the top and go from there.
I checked the date ID of the pix of the last glue up and it was on
GOT SIDE TRACKED DOING SLIDE SCANS
I took plenty of time off from this project and re-scanned over one
thousand three hundred (1300) 35mm slides taken back in the middle to late
1970s through 1983 and scanned them at 1200 dpi. I ran a few of them
after scanned through Photoshop CS2 and saved as a .tiff file which was
around 95 megabytes. However, I saved most in .jpg format and did not
run them through Photoshop CS2, but through the Epson V550 software which
was around 3.5 to 4 megabytes depending on the light factor of the original
slide. I use the .tiff format when needing a quality large print,
however usually end up with around 100 kilobytes or less for web publishing a
pix as above. I will run the digitized 35mm slide images through
Photoshop CS2 when I need to correct the image and resize for web
It took 1.6 minutes to scan each slide and that doesn't include blowing
dust from the slides and brushing each front and back of the slide film with
an antistatic type brush. The Epson V550 will allow you to load four
(4) slides at at time in a plastic positioning holder. For what I am
archiving, the Epson scanner is OK, but "Most of
the time, you get what you pay for" and this scanner is a
Below is a slide pix that was taken back in the early
1980s that is digitized from Kodachrome slide film:
The little shrimp boat was made by an inmate at the Anson Correctional
Center in Polkton, NC. Back then, with the Supt's permission, inmates
could sell their hand crafted items to staff members....that is
taboo now......grin if you must!
There was a pile of wood matches used in the above shrimp boat along with a
few popsicle sticks, sewing thread wood spool and a nylon hair net, etc.
Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 07-12-17.
LEAVING ON A
If you do not know Jesus Christ as your Lord and Savior, please take this
moment to accept him by Faith into your Life, whereby Salvation will be
Romans 10:9 “That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord
Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the
dead, thou shalt be saved.”
link of Bible Verses About Salvation, King
James Version Bible (KJV).
Hebrews 4:12 “For the word of God is quick, and powerful, and
sharper than any two edged sword, piercing even to the dividing asunder of
soul and spirit, and of the joints and marrow, and is a discerner of the
thoughts and intents of the heart.”
Romans 6:23 “For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is
eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.”
Romans 3:23 “For all have sinned, and come short of the glory of